Like a Hurricane

By Abe  

"Take off Abe, go go," said Jerel.

"All right! I going," I said.

I was zipping through the water as my hands hit the side of the surfboard as I paddled. I saw it. I saw how big the wave really was, it had to be at least 10 feet high and I was on the top of the wave ready to drop. The wave was glassy, I could see the kelp rising up the wave as it rose to the sky.

I stood up and skimmed down the wave. I made a cut back up to the top of the wave. There I went, down the face of the kelpy wave with intense force zipping to the bottom. The wave was breaking about 10 feet away from me. It came closer and closer. The curl of the wave went right over me.

The wave was breaking about five feet away from me now, and hitting the water with a thunderous noise The curl of the wave went right over me like a blanket that wasn't touching me. It got quiet, dead quiet as the wave was over me. It was like I was in the Eye of a hurricane. I stuck my hand out to touch the wave and the water was warm which was kind of weird because the water outside the wave was very cold. I saw the opening of the wave and popped out. I made a cut back and then pulled out.

"That was the best wave I ever had," I yelled to Jerel.

"You must have gone at least 150 yards," Jerel said.

I was in Santa Cruz. I had never been surfing there before. It was also my 20th time surfing and I got the best wave of my life.